As I sit here staring out at the tide coming in and listening to the waves crash right at our back door my heart rate drops. The lure of staring out at the ocean to catch a glimpse of a sea lion, otter, bald eagle, jumping salmon or even a killer whale has become addictive. In fact an hour can easily slip by under the hypnosis of the view we are lucky to be enjoying here at the Westerlea Resort in Qualicum Beach, Vancouver Island. If you’ve seen the new Destination BC marketing video that came out this week, you know what I’m talking about.
We have returned to one of our favourite places in Canada to indulge my passion for fly fishing. Home to some of the best fishing rivers in the world Vancouver Island is the place to be when the salmon make their yearly migration up river to spawn. Wading knee deep into crystal clear waters amongst schools of salmon heading up river is truly an amazing spectacle, especially when one decides to make an acrobatic leap in front of you to quicken your pulse and remind you of why you are there. Some days you may be lucky enough to be fishing with a bald eagle or two perched in a tree above you or to be joined by a seal that has swum up river to corner some salmon in a bend of the river.
It’s a time when all other thoughts are distant. A time when your senses are heightened with the crisp autumn air and the sound of flowing waters. Trees draped in moss with changing coloured leaves hang over the edge of the river reflecting again in the flowing water to double their effect. A brilliant blue kingfisher rockets past you skimming the water looking for dinner as a black bear and her cub wade into the shallows just down river to fish, sending a wave of fear based adrenaline coursing through you that soon dissipates as you realize the privilege you have of sharing the river with such a beautiful animal.
Focusing on the stretch of river in front of you, while keeping the bear in your peripheral vision, a game plan develops. Where are the fish today? You ask yourself.
Peering into the water through passing clear windows in the surface you spot your quarry sitting near the bottom on the far bank. Reviewing your fly choice and checking your gear, confidence is everything, as you prepare to roll out your first cast. Reaching across the river your fly lands near the bank and begins its drift down stream towards your target, the speed of its movement sinking you with the flow of the river. Not exactly where it needs to be, your offer is ignored and you quickly recalculate where your next cast will have to land in order to be considered by the salmon. Wading just a little farther out you check your footing and try again. A perfect cast brings a smile to your face briefly as you follow the fly downstream towards the fish.
Suddenly your line goes tight and your rod bends with the violence of the strike. Lifting your rod quickly to set the hook the salmon immediately reacts and takes off down stream stripping the line from your reel in an instant. Reacting in kind you tighten your drag and set the butt of the rod into your stomach preparing for battle. Thumping head shakes and instant changes of direction are telegraphed through your rod and then the salmon breaks the surface leaping for the sky tumbling head over tail trying to throw your hook. Back in the water, it doubles its efforts to escape by running wildly upriver breaking the surfaces again and again with more wild acrobatics and then sounding deep into the pool in front of you bending your rod into a drastic arc.
Feeling as though the battle is now in your favour you take your first breath since the hook up and reposition yourself on the bank to end this battle. It is not over for the salmon though and again it takes off with more violent head shakes and then in a blink your rod straightens and goes light. You real in manically to see if it’s still on but realize quickly that it has thrown the hook and the fight is over. Standing motionless the river falls quiet again as you relive the battle and imagine the one that got away with slight disappointment. Looking around with the hope of another fisherman nearby who may have witnessed your near catch you chuckle realizing you are blissfully alone.
The bears, still just downstream, pause and look towards you briefly unimpressed by your efforts and resume fishing. Watching them for a few minutes you realize there is no other place you would rather be at that moment in time and then, taking the bears cue, you prepare to start fishing again.
Whether you are sitting in the comfort of your ocean view cottage or knee deep in pristine waters, Vancouver Island never disappoints. It’s my happy place in Canada and I know I will do whatever I can to return again next year.
Beautiful country. The east coast also has some great fishing. I’d recommend Nova Scotia (my home), and New Brunswick. 🙂
Hi Nancie, we used to go to the Miramichi every year, we love the East Coast, it’s a beautiful place.
I, too, adore Vancouver Island. Have spent much time there over the years including Parksville/Qualicum Beach, Comox/Courtenay, Uclulet/Tofino and other regions. Love them all!
What’s not to love, right?
I used to love to fish, but I have never gone fly fishing. I really enjoyed reading about fly fishing; your photos were excellent too!!
Thanks Marilyn, glad you enjoyed it.
The Westerlea Resort in Qualicum Beach sounds like my kind of place. You had me when you mentioned the mezmerizing water views. I would probably not leave the view for anything if I were there. BTW, I like the shot of your boots in the photo with the fishing gear. Perhaps you’d like to submit it to my photo gallery, http://berkeleyandbeyond.com/Way-Beyond/Travel-Articles/Miscellaneous/Photos-of-Toes/photos-of-toes.html
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The whole front of our suite is windows so you can imagine how many hours we spend just staring at the ocean.
We’ll check out the gallery, thanks for mentioning it.
I visited Vancouver Island for the 2nd time this summer, and had the chance to explore just a taste of what the island has to offer. We were in the Tofino area, and I can’t wait ti go back. Every twist and turn in the road took my breath away, and the food was so delicious and fresh. I can certainly understand why it is one of your favorite places. Your shots catching the fly rod in action are just great.
The drive to Tofino is pretty spectacular.
One of my favorite books/movies is “A River Runs Through It” because of the lyrical narrative, the sheer poetry in describing the zen of angling with a fly rod. This post was of such quality, too. Beautifully done. Photos are magnificent. You took me to a great place with this. Thanks!
Thank you so much Betsy. A River Runs Through It is the movie that got Tim into fly fishing so this comment is quite the compliment. Mahalo.
I don’t know anything about fly fishing but your words and images transporting me to BC with you!
Thanks Irene, it’s nice to be able to do that.
What some awesome countryside – salmon fishing always looks so idyllic too. Have you read a book called Salmon Fishing in the Yemen? I can’t remember off hand the author, but it was such a quirky and readable book with some great take away points.
We haven’t heard of that book but will look it up. Thanks for the suggestion.
There’s such grace and skill when it comes to fly-fishing. I don’t know what the learning curve is like, but on rivers like the ones pictured in your post my patience would be tried.
Tim has been fly fishing for a good 20 years and I only started last year. I always thought I wouldn’t be able to do it, or that I’d get bored but when I got out there on the river, it was amazing. Time flew by and it was just a great feeling being out in nature and able to walk around in the water, a really great experience.
Nat
Although I am not much of a fisherman, I can still enjoy the beautiful landscape. I felt like I was reading a novel with photos! Beautiful post, thank you.
Thank you so much Suzanne.
I found your description almost mediative until the battle with the salmon begins. I’m not a fisher but after your description of it, a part of me wants to give it a try.
Even if I don’t catch anything, being able to be alone and savour in the experience would be enough for me.
You definitely should, especially being in BC, there are so many great rivers there.
Vancouver Island sounds amazing and your photos are beautiful! Waves crashing against the rocks, sea lions and otters, jumping salmon! Who says paradise in only in Hawaii? !!!
We do love Hawaii but Canada does have some spectacular places to visit as well.
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