Merenda Reale
We arrived at Caffè San Carlo for our 3:30 reservation, the place was empty except for a few people enjoying a drink while reading the paper. The first thing I thought was, “I hope you don’t plan on sleeping tonight”.
Let me explain, our reservation was for the Merenda Reale (literally meaning royal snack), it’s sort of like afternoon tea for the Brits but different. In the 1700’s between 2 and 10 pm, the aristocratic society would indulge in cups of drinking chocolate and dunkable cookies and pastries made by palace chefs, all the while getting high on sugar and caffeine.
Like aristocrats
And so on this day, we would be indulging like aristocrats on this royal snack and since caffeine in the late afternoon usually means no sleep for us, we knew what to expect that night.
Opened in 1822, Caffè San Carlo became a hangout for intellectuals and reformists. It closed several times during the Italian Wars of Independence because of the subversive activities of its customers and was also severely damaged during WWII. It underwent an extensive restoration that lasted ten years (1953 to 1963). Other than a few frescoes, everything had been destroyed. It’s hard to imagine that only a small part of what we were looking at was original.
In my usual spot
We sat on the far side, Tim with his back against the wall and me in my usual spot, across the table. We were both able to admire the huge chandelier hanging in the middle of the ceiling as there are large mirrors all along the walls so no matter where you sit, you have a great view of the whole room.
First course
Our server immediately came to see us and quickly explained what would ensue. To start he brought us a bicerin, Turin’s specialty coffee drink comprised of a shot of espresso, topped with chocolate (without milk) and finished with cold whisked milk (in some instances it is served with cold whisked cream).
Our first course would be typical Piemontese cookies including savoiardi (lady fingers) and baci di dama (two small cookies held together with chocolate).
Second course
Already feeling the effects of too many cookies and bicerin, our second course arrived. A large shortbread cookie and two slices of baguette topped with a thick slathering of what I thought was mascarpone but after closer inspection turned out to be fresh butter.
Third course
After a short chat, our server asked us, of the three ingredients in the bicerin, chocolate, coffee and whisked milk, which was our favourite. Tim answered chocolate and I answered coffee. Without saying a word, he was off only to return a few minutes later with two small glasses, one with a shot of coffee and the other, you guessed it, chocolate.
We thought this was the end of it but here he came with two more plates. This time it was mini amaretti cookies, gianduiotto, the inverted boat-shaped chocolate made with hazelnuts and, cri-cri, which is a chocolate coated hazelnut covered in tiny sugar ball candy.
The Finale
Although everything was amazing and we were loving all the treats, there was no way we could finish it all without our nervous system getting frazzled so we took a few more bites and sips. I slipped some chocolates into my bag and off we went buzzing into the night.
Disclosure: We were hosted by Turismo Torino, the opinions in this post are our own.
alison abbott says
I think I would be a fan of bicern, especially drinking it in such a lovely environment. I can only imagine how rich the shot of chocolate was. So did you get any sleep that night?
Nat & Tim says
Not enough haha
Anita says
Bicerin–so over-the-top, and so wonderful. And what a setting for a Merenda Reale! Thanks for bringing back one of my fondest memories of Turin.
Nat & Tim says
Our pleasure 😉
Donna Janke says
Merenda Reale sounds truly decadent. Bicerin looks and sounds so tasty – that in itself would have enough of a treat for me.
Janice Chung says
I’d love this! But the key question is: did you sleep well that night?
noel says
Whoa, what a dessert indulgence, I love it and want to do the same since I didn’t get any desserts tonight!
Irene S. Levine says
What an elegant snack! made more elegant by the setting!
Rachel Heller says
The Merende Reale sounds so tasty! I’m not a coffee drinker, but those sweets gave me a sugar rush just reading about them! I love that there’s no real pretense that anything on this menu is healthy!
Nat & Tim says
What do you mean? It’s not healthy? 😉
Doreen Pendgracs says
Wonderful post! Brought back so many wonderful memories of my time in Turin drinking Bicerin and eating delectable chocolates!
Nat & Tim says
It’s such a great city!
Karen Warren says
I love going into grand cafes like that. I always like to imagine what they were like when they were hangouts for intellectual society.
Nat & Tim says
If only we could time travel…
Sue Reddel says
I absolutely adore afternoon tea but this Mernad Reale really kicks it up a notch. Not sure I could finish all those sweets but I’d certainly do my best. We’re going to Turin this year and will certainly add this too our list. Thanks!